Arowana
The Dragon Lives!
(c) 1999 Keith J. Thibodeaux*++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Note - This is a draft in progress. It is not a money-making project and I expect little, if any, income to be derived from this book if published. I may just leave it on the Internet for all to enjoy freely. I have not yet obtained persmission to use some of this material and graphics. If you notice one of your items here and wish to grant permission for me to use it, please email me as such. You will be granted full credit in the publication.. If you notice one of your items and do not wish to grant permission for its use, email me and I will remove it immediately. Like most works this is a compilation of my experience as well as the experience of others and research through all available sources of information. My gratitude is expressed to everyone involved in the care of Arowana. My goal is to add to the enjoyment of those involved in the keeping of Arowana and to the health and well being of the fish. I also welcome any voluntary submissions of text and/or graphics. If used, full credit will be extended. Last, this is a work in progress. Its contents change everyday and since it is a draft, I make no guarantee as to its accuracy.Contents
Acknowledgements
Introduction
Chapter 1 - What is an Arowana?
Chapter 2 - Species of Arowana
Chapter 3 - How to pick a healthy Arowana?
Chapter 4 - Caring for your Arowana
Chapter 5 - Feeding an Arowana
Chapter 6 - Breeding Arowana
Chapter 7 - Diseases and Health Issues
Chapter A - State of the Arowana in Nature
Appendix B - Other Books about Arowana
Appendix C - Arowana on the Internet
Bibliography and Credits
About the Author
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Chapter 1
What is an Arowana?
Arowana, also called Dragon Fish, Baramundi, Saratoga, Pla Tapad, Kelesa, and Aruana depending on which part of the world you are in, are one of the most prized and expensive aquarium fish available. They are long, sleek, streamlined fish of great beauty. They are also an unusual aquarium fish with a unique character and can become an aquarist's pride and joy. Their colors in nature range for green to silver to red and other variants, with large scales having a bright reflective sheen. The two barbels attached to the lower lip are used to sense vibrations of struggling prey on the water surface which is then sucked into a cavernous mouth which opens like a trap door as the fish leaps from the surface. It is indeed capable of swallowing a very large meal. Arowana are large and sometimes aggressive fish, therefore it is not in everyone's taste, nor can it be housed in a standard sized aquarium. These fishes have the potential for rapid growth and in most cases grow very quickly, especially when fed a high protein diet, reaching 24 inches and more in the aquarium. In nature they range from 3 feet up for most varietes, and up to 9 feet or more for the giant South American variety. While they may may be housed in a small tank as a juvenile, they will require a 55 gallon tank in only a few months, and eventually a 175 gallon or larger tank. Bigger is always better for an Arowana.
Studies have shown that the Arowana is a primitive fish. Fossil records of this ancient and widespread family of fishes date back to 10-60 million year depending on species and continent. Having evolved through tens of millions of years means that it is indeed a very hardy fish that is rumored to live to a hundred years. Arowana belong to an ancient family of fishes, the family Osteoglossidae, which literally means bony-tongue. The name "bony tongue" is derived from a toothed bone on the floor of the mouth. The toothed tongue bites against teeth on the roof of the mouth. The head is bony and the elongate body is covered by large, heavy scales with a mosaic pattern. The dorsal and anal fins have soft rays with a long base, while the pectoral and ventral fins are small.
The fact that Arowana are a prehistoric relic of the past along with their unique and beatiful apprearance, makes the fish a conversation piece further enhancing their popularity among aquarists, many of whom come to dote on their pet. Their charm is that they are very interesting and fascinating to watch as well with their unusual shape. Most hobbyists who have stood watching an Arowana for a couple of minutes cannot help but to notice their elongated body, large formidable mouth, and serpintine movements, executing a 180 turn and almost bumping into their tails in the process. Another attraction of the Arowana to aquarium hobbyists is that they grow quite large in captivity, at least in relation to most tropical fish species kept in the home. A large fish, such as the Osteoglossum, makes a startling display of which any aquarist could be justifiably proud.
In nature these fishes are surface dwellers gliding just below the water surface keeping a sharp eye out for low flying insects to catch by surprise so feeding an Arowana is not usually a problem so long as one is aware that they are surface feeders and generally will not take food from the bottom. They are usually not particular feeders, taking most carnivorous foods with gusto, but at times they can and will become finicky either demanding the same foods over and over, refusing variation, or just the opposite turning their nose up at the usual foods until something new is presented. They usually attack their food coiling their bodies like a spring and lunging forward to engulf the prey providing great entertainment for owners and totally startling visitors. In nature they can be found in still waters of lakes and rivers. They are excellent jumpers and are especially jittery when first introduced to their new home, so a sturdy cover is essential to prevent a prized specimen from leaping out of its tank. Even juveniles are capable of jumping great distances.
Arowana are not prone to disease and are quite hardy when acclimatized but they are sensitive to water changes and particularly to nitrite buildup. If your Arowana is not eating or sulking near the bottom of the tank it is a sure indicator of the need for a water change. Their popularity continues to grow despite the relatively high costs of the fish itself and the really big aquariums required.
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Chapter 2
Arowana Species
There are six species of Arowana, in the following regions with species listed.
 | South American - Silver Arowana (Osteoglossum bicirrhosum), Black Arowana (Osteoglossum ferreirai) and Arapaima gigas |
| Indonesia - Asian Arowana (Scleropages formosus) |
| Australia - Scleropages jardini, Scleropages leichardtii |
| Africa -African Arowana (Heterotis niloticus) |
This widespread distribution of the species has been used to support the continental drift theory. The main physical difference between the Scleropages and Osteoglossum genusis that the latter has a longer dorsal and anal fin so much so that it appears to be joined together from far. Also, the number of scales in the lateral line is 32-35 for the latter and 21-25 for the former.
ASIAN Arowana (Scleroages Formosus). The Asian Arowana, commonly known as the Dragon Fish or Golden Arowana, is actually represented by several color varieties. These are the green, red, redtail golden, and Malaysian gold (blue) with new varieties occaisionally appearing. This species reaches a length of about thirty (30) inches. It is a long-lived fish, with some specimens reportedly living between 25 and 100 years depending on who you believe. In the wild it is found in Southeast Asia, particularly in Peninsular Malaysia, Thailand, Borneo, Sumatra. The Asian Arowana's huge size, gold and red large scales, bold expression, noble air and elegant movment makes it a favorite among hobbyists and aquarists worldwide. The Asians differ from the South Americans by their fins. The Asians have short anal and dorsal fins with larger pectoral fins and shorter barbels than the South Americans. The Asian Arowana is one of the most expensive tropical fish in the world and the most popular fish in the Asia. The demand on the market has exceeded the quantity available. Over harvesting has required it to be classified as a protected species. The factors are causing the price of the Asian Arowana to rise continuously.
In addition to the information above, many Asians believe that Arowana bring them good luck and fortune. Some Chinese, particularly businessmen, believe this fish has the power to ward off evil, in addition to bringing luck and fortune and consider it a "status symbol" to own not one, but several of these rare, exotic, and easy to keep fishes.. According to the Chinese, the Dragon signifies health, prosperity, and wealth. It is believed that if you have an Asian Arowana and you keep it in good health, you will have good luck and fortune (especially if a red Arowana). If you don't take care of it, you will have bad. According to these beliefs you should keep it so that when entering the house you can not see the whole fish, if not will have the worst luck of all. This comes from the ancient belief that the true dragon is said to "never reveal itself fully to mortal eyes. If its head is seen, its tail is obscured or hidden. If the tail is exposed, then the dragon is careful to keep its head out of sight."
The superstitions mentioned above, along with the beauty and intrigue of the Arowana, results in many Asians being willing to pay nearly any price for an Arowana. The resulting high demand and low supply from river sources caused the Asian Arowana to be harvested until being close to extinction. Due to these circumstances, in 1980, the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) was signed by 72 countries, listing the "Asian Arowana" in the first appendix as a highest class protected fish. This prohibits international trade except in special circumstances, i.e. the captive-bred fish (F2 Generation) which may be traded if specimens are tagged with a glass-covered microchip inserted under the skin that can be read by a scanner. Proper CITES permits and a certificate with the microchip number must also accompany each fish. Sale of native fish is now illegal, however the rarer the fish, the more expensive it becomes and the more enhanced the owner's status. This popularity has led to a growing concern about extensive illegal trade of the Asian Arowana in Malaysian Peninsula , which serves as an important trade point for both imports and exports. Initial TRAFFIC surveys to learn the extent of illicit trade in area indicate that this fish is smuggled in from Indonesia and sold to foreigners and to local traders. Although there is some demand for the fish in Malaysia, most are imported into the country and re-exported to other destinations, such as Thailand, Taiwan, and Hong Kong. The latter is believed to be the largest market for Asian Arowana. Fortunately, the captive breed F2 Asian Arowana are now available and importation of captive breed Arowana is now permitted in some countries. Note that only the Asian Arowana is protected, not the South American, African, or Australian varieties.
Varieties
Red-Tail Golden Arowana
Found in Pekanbaru of Indonesia. The scales are copper-gold in color with some purplish shine. The back of the fish is dark in color, ranging gray, brown to black.
Crossback Golden Arowana
Found in Malaysia and sometime called Malayan Bonytongue. It has golden scales to the fourth column and pinkish abdomen when young. When the fish grow up, the golden scales will escalate to the fifth column (hence cross-back) and the pink abdomen disappear. The scales may have different base color such as gold, silver or blue. Blue being the rarest. The scales can also divided into thin or thick golden frame. Thin frame scales bluebase crossback gold are one of the most demanded Arowana and hence often the most expensive.
Red Arowana
Found in Kalimantan and Sumatra of Indonesia. They can be divided into 1st grade red and 2nd grade red. 1st grade red can have different intensity of color ranging from yellow to orange to red to blood red and chilli-red. The higher intensity red is more desirable and often demands a very high price. It is often difficult to differentiate 1st grade red from 2nd grade red when the fish is young. Young 1st grade red's tail and anac fin have intense red color and their scales are shiny gold in color with some green at the base. Young 2nd grade red has orange fins and the scales color are no obvious and often whitish silver. When the fish grows, in 1st grade red, the color of the fins remains red, their scales and the gill cover will develop its color. Ther type of color it will developed into depends on which type of 1st grade red you have. On the other hand, the adult 2nd grade red will only have pinkish or orange colored fins, thier scales and gill color will only developed pink or orange color.
Green Arowana
Found in Malaysia, Indonesia and Thailand. The scales are not bright and often tranlucent with some grey or green color. The color is even throughtout the body(ie no dark-top). The tail can be grey, purplish-grey or green in color. This fish is generally shorter then its Asian relatives.This is the most affordable asian Arowana.
Asian Albino
As in all species, albino does occur. They are rare and quite expensive.
SOUTH AMERICAN Arowana
The South American Arowana differ from the rest by their fins. They have long, parallel dorsal and anal fins, and short pectoral fins. There are sometimes red-finned and blue-finned variations available of these species. During maturity all of their fins turn that color and stay that way for the rest of their lives. There are 3 species of Arowana (also called Aruana) from South America. They are the Black (Osteoglossum ferreirai), the silver (Osteoglossum bicirrhosum), and the giant Arapaima giga.
SPECIES
Silver Arowana (Osteoglossum bicirrhosum)
Most common of all the Arowana, also being the cheapest. A baby (3 inch) silver Arowana will can cost as low as $10 for a baby, while 12" adults can cost $100 and up. Silver Arowana have the same coloring as adults and babies. They have a light gray/silver body and sometimes have blue behind their gill covers. Silver Arowana have long fin and tail with its whole body silver in color . It can grow up to a very large size about 49 inches!
Black Arowana (Osteoglossum ferreirai)
Similar to the Silver Arowana but its fin and tail are black-color . Not as common as, and slightly more expensive than, a Silver Arowana . They are very similar to Silver Arowana. When they are young, they display very distinct color markings, making them very nice looking fish. Black Arowana are harder to raise, slower growing, and more finicky eaters than Silver Arowana . The black Arowana are colored differently when babies being solid black with yellow/white stripes running horizontally down their bodies and another stripe vertically, right behind the eyes. Unfortunately, as they grow the Black Arowana turn dark gray and keep black fins, while the yellow stripes turn red and push to the outside of the tail.
Pirarucu (Arapaima Gigas)
One of the largest freshwater fishes in he world and a truly magnificent fish reaching a reported 13 feet. Sadly fish of 10 feet or more are no longer reported in the wild being overfished. The compressed elongate body is covered with large scales and the many sensory canals on the bony head give it a sculptured look. The rear edges of the scales towards the rear of the fish sometimes develop light blue edges. Due to size it is rarely available to the aquarium trade which is a shame. The Aquarium of the Americas in New Orleans, LA has a nice pair in the 5 to 6 foot range on display in the Amazon section.
AUSTRALIAN Arowana
Australian Arowana (also called Saratoga locally) originated from Australia and look very similar in form to the Asian Arowana, but closer inspection reveals smaller, more numerous scales. There are two species, the Pearl (Scleropages jardini) and Spotted Arowana (Scleropages leichardti). Both look the same except for the scales and colors with, traditionally, one color morph but more are now becoming available on a very limited basis. The Australian Arowana are regarded as the most aggressive being very curious and readily accepting most foods. They grow to about thirty-six (36) inches in nature, probably reaching around 24 inches in aquariums.
SPECIES
Jardini Arowana, Northern saratoga, Jardine saratoga, Gulf saratoga, Australian gold/pearl Arowana and jardini saratoga (Scleropages jardini)
The pearls can be silver with black fins (most common), to a yellow or gold color.
Leichardti Arowana, Dawson River saratoga, Southern saratoga, Spotted barramundi, Australian spotted Arowana and leichardti saratoga (Scleropages leichardti)
Blue color too a dark gray, but they have dark red to brown spots on each scale.
AFRICAN AROWANA
African Arowana (Heterotis niloticus)
Not as popular as the rest, rarely available and unlike the other carnivorous Arowana, the African Arowana is an omnivorous filter feeder that will accept larger items when hungry. Its head is more rounded without the usual upturned mouth along with short, parallel dorsal and anal fins. They grow to about thirty-six (36) inches in nature.
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Chapter 2
How to Pick a Healthy Arowana?
Depending on the species and size, the Arowana can be a very expensive fish, so it is important to know that you are getting a quality fish. First let me state that a juvenile Arowana may not resemble the mature fish it will grow to be when you first acquire it therefore the reputation of the source is crucial if you are paying a large sum as you will not see what you are getting for a year or more. Consider the following when choosing your Arowana, but make your choice carefully, as this fish could be with you for much of your adult lifetime.
SPECIES - How much you are willing to spend may be the first consideration and will narrow the species down. If you are willing to spend over $500 for a fish you can afford an Asian Arowana. Bear in mind that $500 is for a low end Asian Green and prices go up to several thousand dollars for a Golden, Golden Red Tail, Red, Super Red, or Chili Red depending on size. In the $100-500 range you will find the Australian Leichardti and maybe an African. They sell at this price due to their scarcity rather than their looks. Under $100 you have the Jardini, an attractive fish, very aggressive, and growing in popularity. The Black Arowana range from $90-20 depending on size and quality but bear in mind that their very distinctive appearance when young fades with age. The Silver Arowana which can routinely be found for under $10.00 at Wal-Mart and is a great starter Arowana. Silver and Black Arowana are sold very young. Save yourself some heartache and make sure the egg sack is fully absorbed and the Arowana is eating well unless you have some experience with baby Arowana and even then be prepared for some loss.
Color - Color should be bright and shiny. Dull or faded colors is a sure sign of an unhealthy fish and it one of the most important criteria in judging the quality of the fish. If the body shape is attractive but the color is not, it cannot be considered a healthy, quality Arowana. Of course, the standard colors differ by species and variety.
Body Shape - The ideal shape is one that is proportionate, neither too fat nor too thin, sufficiently broad and long, with each fin complete and in place. Pay particular attention to back posture. A bent back is a sign of malnutrition when young or an extended time in too small of an aquarium. Either way it is usually not correctable.
Scales - Scales are the Arowana's distinctive feature. They should be neatly arranged, shiny, evenly shaped, big, and radiant without dark spots with the exception of red spots which are welcome being considered auspicious. When the scales drop off they will be replaced naturally. Sometimes when the new scale is growing it has an itchy sensation causing it to rub its body against the side of the aquarium which causes additional damage to the fish. To prevent this, some advise removing all tank decorations during the 3 to 5 week period required for the scale to grow back. Of course water condition is especially important during this time to prevent infection. Some commercial breeders use Acriflavine. If any scale is out of shape, it could be surgically removed and a new scale will grow in its place.
Mandibular Barbels - Whiskers should be long, straight and equal in length. Many Arowana lovers have high regard for barbels because they resemble the dragon’s horns - a sign of blessing.
Fins - The fins of the fish should be big and widespread. Each fin should have smooth hard-fin rays. Any damaged fin can affect the Arowana's graceful movement and ultimately the beauty of the whole fish. A beautiful fin should be smooth and outstretched, with all its hard rays straight and smooth. There should be no tears.
Eyes - A good quality fish’s eyes should be bright, clear, even in shape and size, not drooping or protruding, and should revolve naturally.
Mouth - The mouth should close tightly and the lower lip not protrude or be loose.
Teeth - The teeth are quite important and should be neatly arranged and in-line with the jaw-line. If the teeth of the fish are not healthy it will affect the fish’s health.
Gill Covers - Normal gill covers should be smooth, compact, close to the body, shiny, and flat with no scars, scratches or wrinkles. Gill curling is a problem on large Arowana in poor living conditions. It can be corrected with surgery, but will require many months for a full recovery.
Vent - A healthy fish’s vent should be flat on the pelvic region. It should not protrude or be easily seen. If the vent protrudes it means the fish has a stomach problem- revealing the unhealthy state of the fish. An exception is when the fish is due to deliver eggs or after it has delivered.
Swimming Style - Graceful and often swimming in the upper part of the water in the aquarium is the style of movement important in enhancing its beauty of the Arowana.
Note - BEWARE OF FAKE RED AND BLOOD Arowana IN THE MARKET! One way of preventing this is to get your fish from a CITES registered farm and make sure that the farm has a good sales record.
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Chapter 3
Caring for Your Arowana
Keeping an aquarium is relatively simple but constant. It is a chore that cannot be ignored or else sick, diseased fish will result. When asked what to do when fish start to show visible signs of sickness or stress, my first response is always to do a water change, whick you should be doing on a weekly basis minimally. I recommend a 25% to 30% change twice a week doing a gravel cleaning while siphoning off the water. With careful planning, you can enjoy keeping a beutiful aquarium without a lot of unnecessary work. You need to understand the primary fish which is an Arowana in this case, its natural habitat, its feeding habits, and its behavior and some aquarium basics. We'll cover food and disease in following chapters so here we'll concentrate on the Arowana's living environment, the aquarium and water.
LOCATION - Choose a location that doesn't have a lot of traffic or noise. This will help to avoid accidents and ease stress on the fish from sudden movement and if you follow the Chinese belief, the Arowana should not be fully visible when first entering the house. Make sure that the floor is strong enough to support the weight of a large tank. A good rule of thumb for weight is gallons x 10 = total weight of tank, stand, and accessories. Also, many recommend the tank not in direct sunlight (due to excess algae growth) while others think direct sunlight is the best light to view an Arowana. Being close to a convenient source water is a requirement for regular water changes or else this will surely be will be neglected if inconvient. Get a long hose and any necessary adapters for the nearest water supply. Arowana tanks are large so when doing a water change you need to get a lot of water out of the tank before you put a lot in therefore get a good siphon and possibly a pump.
TANKS - You'll need a big one, bigger is better. An Arowana can easily grow to 24 inches and larger in an aquarium. They are large and aggressive fish needing lots of room growing in nature they grow to 3 feet and more. The Arowana is a surface swimming fish, width (front to back) of the tank is more important than its height (top to bottom). A general rule is the width of the tank should be at least the length of the fish and the length of the tank is at least twice the width of the tank. You can get by with a 20 gallon long for the first two or three months if your buy a baby Arowana and some veterans even suggest starting with a smaller tank until the fish feels more secure. Beware that if your fish is left in too small of tank for too long a spinal curvature can occur and once it has a full recovery is not possible. Your next stop might be 55 gallon, then a 125 gallon, and finally a 180 gallon plus for a full-grown fish or you could save a lot of money and just get the big tank first. Of course, if you are like most aquarist, you'll have tanks everywhere anyway so each time you migrate up there's another tank. Quality of the tank is important to avoid accidents and mishaps. Even though acrylic is more expensive it may be preferred over a normal glass tank. They weigh less and can be less expensive in large sizes than glass, however they are easily scratched and additional care must be taken. On the flip side, scratches can be buffed out of acrylic, once glass is scratched, it is scratched forever and can even lead to a lack of structural integrity. Important - Keep your tank securely covered. The leading cause of death for Arowana is jumping out of the tank.
DECORATION - One of the first decisions to make when it comes to the aquarium is whether to include gravel and/or decorations. What, no gravel, not plants, no driftwood! While it may sound strange, when keeping Arowana many opt for bare tanks, just fish and water. Listed below are the advantages and disadvantages of a bare tank, but if you do opt for gravel and decoration, keep it sparse.
Advantages
| Easy to clean. Whenever changing water a quick run with a vacuum and you're done. |
| Nothing to distract from the appearance of the Arowana. |
| Nothing to injure the Arowana. Remember, an Arowana is an aggressive fish that strikes hard at prey and also is easily startled causing it to dart very fast. Either way collisions can happen and injuries may result. |
| When hunting small fish near the bottom, Arowana can swallow gravel. OK, this one is kind of weak, but I mentioned it in anyway as it is noted by several Arowana owner. Besides if you are feeding your Arowana correctly he won't be chasing fish on the bottom anyway. |
| Bare tanks are not as attractive as a well decorated tank. |
| Bare tanks do not represent the native environment of the fish. |
| Fish are less secure without some available cover. |
| Lack of materials for bacteria to grow as the gravel bed is a prime bio-base for beneficial bacteria. |
| Arowana watching its reflection on the bottom of the tank is rumored to be a cause of "drop eye". |
| Cannot use an under gravel filter, but this is not recommended with an Arowana anyway as they are known to knock the risers out. |
*Note from the author - I have opted for gravel and moderate decorations but feel that regular, weekly as a minimum, vacuuming of the gravel is a must.
WATER CONDITIONS - Water conditions are important for Arowana.
| PH - 6.5 to 7.5 should do with Asians tolerating a little higher an South Americans liking it a little lower. |
| Hardness - softer is better, 50 ppm |
| Temperature- 75F- 86F, around 80F to 82F most commonly recommended temperature |
| Water Changes - 25% to 50% weekly is essential. Arowana seem to be more sensitive to high nitrites than other fish. Never conduct a 100% change in water, as Arowana are very sensitive to Chlorine and other chemicals/medications. Some advocate water conditioner to de-chlorinate new water others don’t. |
| Water Conditioners - Peat is used by many to soften water. Others recommend trace elements additives like Instant Amazon, Amazon Extract, Waters of the World, and mira vit are some of your choices. (Vitamin additives are covered in the food section) |
| Aquarium Salt may also help reduce stress and give the fish important enzymes when used as directed for a fresh water tank. Commonly 1 tablespoon per 10 gallons. |
FILTRATION - Now, all of you seasoned aquarists bear with me as I go through the Nitrogen cycle and filtration. If you have been keeping aquariums for a while, but smaller ones, you might want to read this section anyway as large tanks are a little different and there are some peculiarities with Arowana as well.
What does a cycling, or seasoning, your aquarium mean? Basically a cycled aquarium means that bacteria are converting waste all the way to nitrates without allowing a build up of ammonia or nitrite to occur in the process. You will be left with nitrates which is not harmful in moderation. Other than live plants or very specialized equipment, the only and most common way to control nitrate levels is through regular water changes.
Cycling a tank takes time, even with the new fancy bacterial starter products. so don’t be fooled into thinking there is a chemical additive way out of this. Chemicals will get you through it faster but not instantly. To give an example, when I setup my 125 gallon aquarium. I ran the Emporer 400 filter in my existing tank for two week and then added to my new tank and swapped one of the biowheels to insure that I had a seasoned filter. I moved 30 gallons of seasoned water from my existing tank and completed the water with new water and water treatment. I sprinkled gravel from my existing tank across the new gravel. I used the Sure Start kit which is adverstised to cycle new aquariums. This complete setup was done along with the addition of a 12" Arowana and a 6" catfish all on one night. The ammonia cycle was completed immediately and no ammonia buildup was noted, however the nitrite cycle did not complete for 3 weeks. Daily water changes were required to keep the aquarium in check and the fish from undue stress. Most aquarist will not be able to take such complete measures and it still took 3 weeks.
OK, so you have to cycle the tank. Your first need is a good test kit to test for ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates. While you're at it go ahead and get the components to test ph and hardness. Use a good startup product such as Sure Start, Cycle or one of the others. Setup everything and add a couple of small fish to get things moving. If you can take some of the measures I mentioned above do so, it will only speed things up. The first part of the cycle, ammonia to nitrites is pretty painless. With the startup products this will happen almost instantly, maybe a week at the longest. When nitrites start to rise, ammonia will rapidly dissapear. Watch the nitrite level daily, do not skip even one day lest you risk some dead fish. Hopefully the fish you have in the tank at this point are inexpensive. Change water daily to keep nitrites at a safe level. When nitrates start appearing you know the cycle has begun but be patient, it may be several weeks before the nitrites disappear. Once they have congratulations, your tank has cycled. Now it just regular water changes to keep nitrate levels at a safe amount. So what's safe. Rather than list that here, your test kit will include this information.
If your Arowana looses his appetite or sulks at the bottom, do a water change. Check you nitrite levels as well, but don't be surprised if it shows OK. As near as I can tell Arowana are more sensitive than any test kit and certainly more than any other fish I have kept. Within a half hour of the water change your Arowana will probably be back to normal. As for nitrates, they won't do a lot of harm in moderation except to create an algae problem, but again this is easily controlled with water changes once or twice a week. Another good way to tell if you're overdue for a water change is to open the cover, stick your nose right to the water and take a good sniff. If you need to change the water, you'll know instantly.
Remember, Arowana are large carnivorous fish so lots of filtration is needed. You cannot over filter your tank. Did I mention water changes, yes I know about a dozen times. Don't get lazy or you will pay the price, do those water changes. Power filters and canister filters are a good idea as most of the maintenance is done outside of the tank. I am a big fan of the Marineland Emporer filters as the entire filter can be maintained with disturbing the biowheels. Fluidized bed filters are becoming very popular and a great supplemental filter to reach that over filtering point. I strongly recommend the Lifeguard Fluidized Bed Bilter. Under Gravel Filters are not recommended as a common problem is the Arowana is known to hit the airlift tubes and knock them out. This can also be a problem with the siphon tube on the Emporer filter is steps are not taken to secure it into place, but that is easily done. If you are dead set on an undergravel filter, devise a way to secure the uplift tubes. Most filters have rating for the size tank they will filter. A factor of four times this rating is a good number to use for Arowana. If going by gallons-per-hour flow. the number should filter the tank at least 4 times per hour. As a last note tThere is much controversy over the use of activated carbon. Many Arowana keepers claim that it removes essential trace elements that the Arowana needs for health and growth and that it can cause head rot.
*Note from the author - I do use carbon, but I add trace elements with each water change. My thought being that harmful chemicals are removed and that good essential trace elements are being replaced faster than the carbon can remove them. At this time I have not experienced problems. The water is sparkling clear and smells good. The Arowana are healthy and their colors excellent.
LIGHTING - Good light is needed not only to present your Arowana for your enjoyment, it is also important in the metabolism of the fish. The light should be bright enough to present the Arowana's color. Some believe natural sunlight brings out the colors best and like to place the tank near a window, but excess heat and light could be a real problem. Since this will be a big tank that you won't want to move once in place, be very careful with this decision. Light too strong is rumored to cause excess algea growth, but excess algae growth is usually caused more by excess nitrates due to infrequent water changes. Lights should be on for a regular period of each time daily to mimic nature. Color tone of the light is purely a personal preference.
HEATERS - Heaters will be a needed if the temperatures in your are drop below 75 F or so. A good average temperature is 80F. But many have been successful between 76 F and 86 F. Rather than buying a single heater rated for your tank, consider buying two heaters each rated for half of the tank. This has two advantages. One if a heater fails and doesn't come on, you still have some heating capacity. The other is that if the heater fails and is stuck on, you will have longer to notice it before your fish boil. Of course the down side is additional cost.
TANK MATES - Keeping multiple Arowana in one tank has been successfully reported. Some combinations seem to get along fine while other fight constantly requiring separation. Success is more likely if 6 to 10 are kept together, although few of us have access to a large enough aquarium to do this. Australians kept together will almost surely result in the death of one of them. Combinations of species seem more likely to get along such as one Asian and one South American. Tread with care and observe carefully if you try to mix or just play it safe and keep one Arowana to a tank. They are far to beautiful to risk damage. Other tank mates are OK given that they are not small enough to be swallowed whole by the Arowana and do not occupy the upper section of the tank. Most all bottom dwellers are tolerated. Be sure they do not pose a threat to the Arowana. It would be a shame to ruin the fins of a beautiful Arowana. Last make sure they are not the types of fish that will steal the available food destined for the Arowana.
*Note from the author - I successfully keep a South American (Blue Arowana) and an Australian (Jardini) in the same 125 gallon tank. The South American was introduced a month before the Australian is twice the size. There have been no incidents between the two, but I will keep a close eye on the Australian as he grows.
BRINGING YOUR NEW Arowana HOME
This refers to a juvenile fish, if you have acquired a large specimen read the moving section below. Have your tank fully prepared, hopefully cycled, before going to pick up your Arowana. Once home float the shipping bag in your aquarium for 15 minutes to equalize the temperature and then remove to a bucket that will hold the bag upright. Add one cup of water to the bag every 5 minutes until the bag is full. At that point, net the fish and place into your aquarium. Draining the contents of the bag into your aquarium is not recommended since it would increase the probability of bringing in some uninvited critters.
MOVING YOUR Arowana
This chapter would not be complete without discussing relocating your Arowana. These fish live a long time and grow fast, so sooner or later you are either going to have to move him to a new tank or move you and him to a new house. Either way this can be a traumatic experience for both the fish and the aquarists, particularly if you have a large Arowana. Some things can be done to ease the pain.
Equipment:
| Large Styrofoam box with lid, or insulated ice chest - if your local fish store cannot supply one of these, you can buy an inexpensive styrofoam ice chest . |
| Plastic bags large enough to house the fish. Check your local fish store for this. If from any other source, beware of contaminants. Use aquarium salt as a scrub to clean the bag. Do not use any bag that might have contained any chemical. |
| Oxygen tank or air pump - Oxygen is recommended if the fish will be in the bag more than 30 minutes. If you can't get oxygen get a battery operated air pump to aerate the bag. |
| Newspaper, rubber-bands, medications to ease stress and in the event of injury, and with large fish consider a tranquilizer. |
| Extra water if a mid-trip water change is required. |
| Hot-water bag in winter or ice in the summer if needed to keep temperature stable. |
Two days before the move discontinue feeding the fish. Before moving day test the bag to insure it does not have a puncture. Double bag the fish with a lining of newspaper between the bags to calm the fish and prevent the fish or you from accidentally tearing the bag. This can also help to keep the temperature stable.
Rather than using a net to get the fish into the bag, which could cause injury, let the transparent bag sink into the water with its mouth wide open and slowly face the mouth of bag towards the fish’s head and gently guide it into the bag. After catching it, adjust the water in the bag to one and one half time higher than the depth of the fish. If you are only moving to a new aquarium fill the bag with room air. If the fish will be in the bag for more than 20 minutes, fill the bag with oxygen. Raise the bag out of the aquarium twist and rubber band the first bag. If you are only transferring to a new aquarium place the bag in the new tank for 15 minutes then begin transferring a cup of water into the bag every 5 minutes for another 15 minutes. After that release the fish gently. If you are traveling, prepare the second bag by lining it with newspaper and put in the first bag. Twist the top of the second bag and secure it with a rubber band also. Place these bags into an insulated container and your are on your way. Once there follow the release steps above. Note - When releasing a fish into a new tank many prefer to leave the lights off in the day as darkness can calm the fish. Leave a light on a night for a few days to prevent the fish from panicking or trying to free itself from its new environment. Feeding should be reduced or discontinued until it is more or less stable then try feeding it a little at a time until it fully regains its appetite.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++Chapter 4
Feeding an Arowana
OK, So What Do You Feed This Thing - If you have a very young or baby Arowana with the yolk sack showing go immediately to the "Feeding your baby Arowana section." Feeding an Arowana is not usually a problem, but feeding an Arowana what he should eat instead of what he wants to eat can be a real challenge. As for what he should eat, that is subject to great controversy, and no one knows for sure, so I'll just stick to describing each along with its advantages and disadvantages. Feed only as much as your fish will eat in five minutes. Additional foods will likely only end up polluting the waters and pollution lead to a shortened life span or death. Minimizing overfeeding will also extend the time between tank cleaning making both you and your Arowana less stressed.
One thing to consider is what the Arowana eats in nature. The Arowana is a carnivorous fish. In the wild its food consist mainly insects, fishes, worms, small amphibians, small mammals, and even birds. High jumpers in the wild they are able to jump 5 feet or more for food hanging on trees. Large specimens won't hesitate to swallow anything they can cram in their very spacious mouths. In nature they swim just below the surface and with their barbels sense for struggling insects on the surface to eat and generally will not take food from the bottom. They prefer to take food high up in the water column. Many people have successfully raised Arowana on a similar diet in captivity. However, a lot of experts are against such feeding methods.
Now about the Arowana in your Aquarium, consider that Arowana in tanks are much less active than in nature. Don't overfeed and make sure a varied diet is available. A lean Arowana will live many years, probably longer than most any other pet. Once an Arowana adapts itself to an aquarium environment and is given the proper attention it will usually live to 20 years or more. Young fishes may be fed up to 2 to 3 times a day, but adult fishes may be fed daily or even every other day. A daily ration might be 3 two-inch minnows or 4 medium shrimp or 3 half-inch cubes of trimmed beef heart daily. A large healthy Arowana could easily devour much more, Although a large Arowana also needs a large amount of food, a healthy Arowana can go for days and maybe weeks without food on occasion. Many advocate feeding about 2-3 times a day, but only small amounts of food are fed at any one time while others advocate large meals with occasional periods of fasting. Both methods have proven successful. One note here is that Black Arowana grow slower and sometimes each much less than other Arowana.
Types of Foods
Live Fish - Let's start with the most controversial food. Almost any fish that will fit into an Arowana large mouth will become Arowana food. Goldfish, baby koi, baby catfish and small chidlids are commonly used and can be easily bought in the appropriate size at most pet shops. They contain a lot of vitamins and minerals that the fish needs to grow and thrive. Another advantage is that the fish does not have to be 'trained' to take in such food because this is what instinct tells it to eat, and this is likely what the distributors and pet dealers were feeding it before you bought it. Wild caught larger fish may refuse to take anything else. To supply your Arowana with additional nutrients or medications you can feed them to feeder fish right before giving them to your Arowana. So live fish sounds great, why bother with anything else. Like everything in life there is a downside to feeding live fish. There is potential risk of disease transmission when this type of food is used. Experts feel that feeder fish may carry certain diseases and parasites that are harmful to the Arowana such as fungus. Some fishes, like goldfish are rich in fat. Goldfish are also believed to contain enzymes that will lead to vitamin B or vitamin E deficiency. Another disadvantage is that the Arowana might hurt itself in the process of chasing his meal and many believe it makes the Arowana more aggressive when fed live foods. You can reduce the injury by removing all the décor found in the tank, making it safer, but less aesthetically pleasing, although they will still crash into the tank walls during pursuit. Others believe that 'pop-eye' found in older Arowana are caused by feeding fatty fish and a lack of gravel on the bottom of the tank causes the Arowana to constantly look down at its own shadow only making it worse.
Pellet Foods - Ok, now let's go to the other extreme. Most aquarium food manufacturers make pellet food or stick food for carnivorous fish. One manufacturer, Hai Feng even makes a food specifically for Arowana. According to Hai Feng "Gold fish, Mosquito Fish and Live Shrimp have been used to feed Arowana and other large carnivorous fish by most hobbyist. But the benefits to the color of Arowana from these live foods are limited. In addition, live foods often make Arowana aggressive, and encourage them to attack other fish. It also tends to cause fattening of the inner eyelids. To prevent those live food's disadvantages, HaiFeng proudly introduce you the Ever Nature Arowana Fish Food which contains all of the nutrition for Arowana. Through many years of research and development, we guarantee to bring out the best in both the color and the health of your fish." This is the Hai Feng feeding guide:
All of Those Other Foods*
Crickets - One of the healthiest choice to feed your Arowana, but only use farm-raised crickets that are sold in fish shops eliminating the threat of pesticide. Crickets are nutritious food, it will enhance its color and simulate growth and the risk of disease transmission is very low. Most Arowana love crickets and you can feed them lots, but one bad point is that the Arowana might reject other foods. Use the appropriate size crickets for your Arowana and remove the hard shell when feed to small fish to avoid intestinal injury. You may feed the crickets fish food, vitamin A foods like rice or carrots before feeding it to Arowana. This is a good way to transfer nutrients to the Arowana and enhance color. Crickets may be frozen or purchased freeze dried for convenience but the percentage of nutrients retained is uncertain and requires further study.
Grasshoppers - An alternative to crickets but can dirty the water because of the leftover wings and legs if not removed.
Centipedes - Very nutritious food . Commonly used in Asia to enhance and intensify the color of Arowana. Unfortunately the availability of this food is low and of course be careful that wherever you dig them up they have not been exposed to insecticide. Frozen centipedes can sometimes be found.
Cockroaches - First of all, yuck!!! Live cockroaches should be used as dead ones may have been sprayed with insecticide. If you insist, keep the cockroach for a couple of days before using it to insure it is not insecticide contaminated. Now if keeping a cockroach for a couple of days doesn't get to you go for it. Just don't invite your significant other to participate lest you not have a significant other very long.
Shrimp and Prawns - Prawns/shrimps are rich in protein, vitamin A, and carotene, which enhance Arowana's color in addition to being very nutritious. Head, tail fin, and shells should be removed when feeding small Arowana as they are hard to digest and may cause intestinal injury. These parts are where the carotene is derived and can be left on for larger Arowana's but the pincers and sharp frontal spines should still be removed. There is also a potential risk of disease transmission. Fresh prawns from the market can be frozen into many smallerpackets and defrosted daily as required, however one should avoid frozen prawns unless you are very sure of its freshness as denatured protein may lead to liver and internal problems in long term. Regardless of size, you may want to try feeding your fish with totally peeled shrimp at first, letting the fish get used to it, before feeding them with the shells on. Some promote removal of head as it is hard to digest and also the gill may have high concentration of germs/toxin.
Krill - A nutritious food and readily available. Use appropriate size krill. You might crush the shell and soak the krill to soften the shell prior to feeding small Arowana to avoid intestinal injury.
Earthworms - Earthworms are a favorite and are eagerly taken. They are very healthy and nutritious with minimal risk of disease transmission. Earthworms can be collected with the use of use some potassium permanganate by dissolving the crystals in a bucket of water until the water turns medium purple in color. Pour the water onto an area where you think the worms have burrowed and wait a short while. Within a couple of minutes, if there are any worms, they will be popping up out of the ground. The effects of the potassium permanganate on Arowana has yet to be studied. I would recommend against its use. Make sure that no insecticides are used in the place where you catch your earthworms. Feeding the earthworm with nutritious food to clear the soil and transfer the nutrient is highly recommanded.
Mealworms - Arowana love them. Mealworms are cheap, healthy, and nutritious for adult Arowana containing lots of protein, but should be avoided for feeding baby Arowana due to their hard shell. The darker the worm, the harder the shell. Try the light ones for smaller Arowana.
Bloodworms - Bloodworms are mainly used to feed baby Arowana and are nutritious, but should be rinsed to remove impurities. Feeding when frozen is not recommended. Live bloodworms are preferable but commercially available bloodworms are equally good when fresh. Freeze dry bloodworms may also used.
Tubifex Worms - Tubifex worms are collected in highly contaminated areas and should be avoided unless properly treated. Commercially breed tubifex worms claim to be cleaner but this is sometimes questionable. This goes to frozen tubifex worms as well. Freeze dried tubifex worms are cleaner but possibility of germs as well as other contaminants are still not totally eliminated.
Frogs - A favorite food for Arowana. Very nutritious food for Arowana and are commonly used in Asia but be sure they are not poisonous. Dead frogs should not be used. Some believe that frogs enhance color.
Lizards - Very nutritious and often loved by the fish. A good occasional treat.
Fish Meat - Fresh fish meat can be used. I have heard of Arowana being trained to accept strips of raw fish by hand. Trim all the fat away and cut them to bite size, wash them before use to avoid contamination of the water. Be careful with frozen fish. If it is old, the denatured protein may lead to sickness.
Beef heart - Feeding beefheart to the Arowana will help it to grow faster and bigger. Fat must be removed or it will dirty and make the water oily and accumulated fat might contribute to Dropeye.
Chicken heart - An alternative to beef heart, it provides nearly the same amount of protein but contains less fat.
*Note 1 - Do not feed insects with sharp or very hard shells. This is rumored to cause the fish's stomach to be injured and could be fatal.
*Note 2 - Be careful with insects due to the possibility of insecticide contamination. Many homes and yards are treated with insecticides. Insects exposed may still be living, but continued ingestion by your Arowana will build up and eventually kill it. Don't risk it.
*Note 3 - Vitamin supplements are commonly used. They can be added to the water and/or most foods can be soaked or injected with vitamin supplements and they are available from many sources.
Feeding Your Baby Arowana
When Arowana are harvested very young they sometimes have what looks like a rubber bladder protruding from their abdomen. This yolk sac must not be disturbed. This is their alevin stage. The sack will soon be absorbed into their bodies. While this is happening your Arowana will not be too interested in food. His yolk sac provides him with balanced nutrition. Once his yolk sac has vanished he will want to eat and one should have a few baby guppies or baby mollies in the tank for food. Be careful there are no other fish to compete for this first meal which is very important. Once your new Arowana starts eating you are pretty much home free. These first few weeks are a good time to introduce alternative foods such as pellets as most Arowana are very receptive during this period.
Sidebar - Why are Arowana, primarily the two South American species of Arowana, the Black Arowana, Osteoglossum ferreirai, and the more common Arowana, Osteoglossum bicirrhosum, harvested so young. Both species are collected by Indians will harpooning an adult Arowana for food. While dressing it out, he will cut off the head to see if any fry are inside the pocket area of the lower jawbone. Being mouth brooders this is practically the only way to get fry. See the breeding chapter for more information of the mouth brooding habits of Arowana. These babies, if present, are usually still in the process of absorbing their yolk sacks and are scooped out of the mouth and placed in a bucket of water to sell later to a tropical flsh exporter. This may seem like a terrible method of collecting baby Arowana for the tropical fish trade but in reality it is not cruel. The adult fish is eaten like any any other fish in the world. The fry, which would normally perish are saved due the aquarium market for Arowana. Due to this method of collection, the supply is erratic and somewhat seasonal.
The fish go through a rapid changing of hands. Picked up from the Indian by a local trader, then to exporter, then to air cargo, then to importer, then to a wholesaler, then to your local fish store. Losses are high due to the fragile state of the fry when collected with their delicate yolk sac. The young Arowana are thoroughly stressed and must be given experienced care if they are to survive. Follow the guidelines in the care section and pay attention to the "Feeding Your Very Young Arowana" in the feeding section.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Chapter 5
Breeding the Arowana
Arowana breeding may be better left to professionals, but if you are the type to take on nearly insurmountable challenges here is what is known.
Nature - In the wild, Arowana pair by natural selection spending weeks courting. A pair of Arowana will chase and bite each other's tail while courting, eventually together side by side and chasing off other fish before they finally breed. When the females is ready she will lay eggs on slow stream riverbeds, which will be up to 1/2" in diameter and are then fertilized by the male. The eggs are then scooped up by male Arowana and hatched in his mouth. The fry will begin to briefly leave the father's mouth slowly increasing their exposure to the outside world. There will be fewer Arowana than originally consumed. It is believed that the Arowana when startled sometimes accidentally swallows some of the young. During this time, the father will signal the fry when there is a sign of danger and they will immediately swim back immediately for safety. The babies will have a yolk sack that they will use until they are ready to feed on their own. The fry will leave the father when they are capable of surviving on their own. An exception is the Arapaimas who bury their eggs in the sand until they hatch.
Aquarium - There were few records that Asian Arowana has been successfully bred in aquariums. Commercial breeders of Arowana usually use large earthen ponds. When breeding in earthen ponds, ten or more mature Arowana (half males, half females) are put into the pond and natural selection is allowed to take its course. The Arowana are observed carefully. When a pair is formed, they will chase the others away and started laying eggs. A net is then put in to segregate the pair from the other Arowana. When the fry are free swimming, they are netted and kept in rearing tanks. However, most aquarist do not have an earthen pond at home or live in a climate suitable to leaving them outside for several months.
At first not thought possible breeding Arowana in a tank has been acomplished, but much harder due their large size when mature. Many people around the world have started trying to breed Arowana in captivity, but it is nearly impossible. One successful aquaria breeder, Mr. Hiroshi is the most respected fish breeder in Japan. To accomplish his successful breeding in the aquarium environment, he first has access to pairs of adult Asian Arowana that have been successfully breed in pond condition. So the fish are already paired off, and have spawned once before moving into his tank. His basement is dedicated to fish breeding, which reduces the stress of the Arowana. He published the first article on captive breeding of Asian Arowana in 1992 after 20 years of research on this fish. (See the January, 1992 issue of TFH).
Arowana are mouthbrooders. Asian Arowana are hard to sex, especially when they are young. Sexual maturity depends on environmental conditions, but generally females takes 2-3 years and male 4-5 years to reach maturity.enerally, males are larger in size and fin then its female siblings, which give then a more arrogant look. It is believed that they also has wider and deeper jaw(to hold the eggs and fry). Females, on the other hand are smaller and have a more rounded body. It takes a lot of experience to sex mature Arowana, only when they start breeding will you be 100% sure.
There are two ways to pair up aowanas. By natural pairing or matching. Matching is inherently more dangerous as Arowana are territorial. They will inevitably fight if you keep two together. Their aggression decreases when the number of Arowana keep together increased to 6 or more. This is often not possible due to the high price of some species of Arowana. Also, remember that you will need a mighty big tank to hold 6 Arowana. The bigger the tank, the better, with 8'x2'x2' as the minimum.
Natural Pairing - At least six mature Arowana are needed to have a reasonable chance of getting a pair. Young that have grown up together are preferable. If not, they should be placed into the the tank at the same time so that none will have chance to develop a territorial sense earlier then others.
Observe closely until a pair appears to have formed noted by the male swimming closely to the female and chasing the rest away. At this time remove the rest of the Arowana from the tank.
Courting will take place over a 1-2 months period. They will continue to swim closely together, often in circular motion, chasing and biting each other's tails and fins often cause injuries to the body as well. Females usually sustain more injuries, especially in anac fin, genital area and gill cover, possibly due to male trying to stimulate her hormonal secretion.
Their appetite will drop gradually, as the abdomen of the female will start to swell up and filled with eggs. An area, usually a less disturbed area with weak current, will be chosen to lay the eggs. Covering the spawning area of the tank if recommended to avoid disturbing or terminating the spawning due to stress.
At the time of egg release, they will then swim parallel to each other, rubbing against each other and occasionally stayed motionless. Eventually, they will stop swimming, but continue rubbing bodies until, with a sudden spasm, the female will release her eggs and simultaneously the male fertilizes by releasing his sperm. Spawning usually takes place in the afternoon with the number of eggs laid averaging 60 and being up to 1/2" in diameter. The male will immediately scoop up as many eggs as possible with the remainder usually eaten by the female.
During hatching period, female will start to chase the male, possibly violently. It is possible that the male might swallow some eggs accidentally during this chasing therefore it is a good idea to remove the female away at that time.
The yoke sac should be fully absorbed in around 60 days. The fry will then begin to leave the father's mouth, first briefly and slowly increase the duration. You should have a supply of baby guppies on hand at this stage. Once the fry begin to eat readily for a few days they can be removed from the parent. Use standard procedures mentioned in the care section.
Matching - This is risky. You should be confident that you have two Arowana of the opposite sex. This takes a lot of experience and should only be tried with extreme care. Arowana can and will fight to the death is paired improperly.
Condition the two Arowana with lots of live food. Put two fish into the breeding tank of at least 175 gallons with a transparent divider between them. Give them time to get accustomed to each other and continue to condition them at the same time.
After several weeks, remove the divider, and watch them carefully. They may be more violent than a pair formed by natural selection. When it gets too violent or fish are injured, put the divider back. Consider whether you may be wrong that they are of opposite sex or are not mature enough yet. If you still feel sure you have a pair give it a few more days and remove the divider again. If you have a pair, the two Arowana will show courting behavior as stated above. Spawning on will similar to natural pair.
Commercial Breeding - The items below link directly to the websites of two premier breeders of Asian Arowana.
One of the world's leading breeders and suppliers of F2 generation Asian Arowana, Dragon Fish Industry, have generously provided the following information on their website from their commercial breeding operation in Singapore. They can be contacted at the following address:
DRAGON FISH INDUSTRY
107 NEO TIEW CRESCENT
LCK AGROTECHNOLOGY PARK
SINGAPORE 710000
TEL: 65-7417077 FAX:65-7917931
Or on the web at www.dragonfish.com or e-mail at sales@dragonfish.com
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Harvesting the Asian Arowana on the 15 Aug 98. Here am I, William with my brother-in-law, Simon. It takes about 5 persons and an hour to harvest a pond. |
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A total of 60 fries from a single Male Arowana ! A Dragon Fish Industry record ! |
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The proud father of the 60 fry ! |
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Another picture of the fries,aren't they lovely ? At this stage, they are only one inch long. They are about a month old as at 15 Aug 98 |
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Guess what type the father is ? Is it a red tail golden or
a over back golden? Well, it is a first grade or high back redtail golden (note the gold colour is up to the fifth level), about 4 years old. Probably, in about 12-18 months, the gold colour will cross over its back . |
The Asian Arowana is a difficult fish to breed, more so under
glass tank orfibre glass pond conditions. It will only breed in natural, earth pondswhen
they reaches maturity between ages 3-5, depending on colour variationand water conditions.
Sexing them is difficult. However, the male's mouthis wider and deeper as the Asian
Arowana is a male mouth brooder! Eachspawn will only yield 30-80 eggs and stays in the
male's mouth for about5 weeks. Each egg is orange-red in colour and is very fragile.
Pre-pawningbehavoir lasts 2-3 months, with both parents swim around the perimeterof the
pond day and night.
Theaverage pond size is 30m by 15m
by 2m. Both water lilies and water hyacinthserve the dual roles of providing shade and
biological filtration for thefishes. The ponds are covered with netting to prevent birds
from entering.
LEFT:
A breeding pond for Arowana
Arowana Fry
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The young fry is now about 4 months old and measures 15 cm (6 inch) long! Next month, they will be tagged with a microchip each. |
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Look, I was being bullied and bitten near my back! Fortunately, acriflavine and salt helps me to heal faster. Hope that the tagging will not be too painful next month! |
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See, that's me and all my siblings. Though we are comfortable with each other most of the times but will still fight for food once feeding time is here. Heard that they are reducing from 5 to 4 feedings per day soon, why so stingy? |
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The young fry is now about 3 months old and measures 12 cm (4.5 inch) long! |
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Look, they are chasing after artemia (brine shrimp) during their lunch. They are fed both artemia and frozen blood worm, six times a day! |
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Notice that the body has a sheen of yellow and green already. And the tail starts to show the fine brown lines. |
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Note that the water is a little yellowish. This is due to our home made black water extract being added. |
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The young fry is now about 2 months old. They are all free swimming , notice that the egg sacs have disappeared . |
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They are about 3 inches long . And they eat alot ! |
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In fact, they eat five times a day! And they had even started to fight. |
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The young fry is now about 2 weeks after harvest. They are learning to swim now, saying 'Want to play with me?' to their siblings. |
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A kindergarten of young fries grouping together for company and warmth. |
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'See, I can swim quite well!' |
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Notice that their egg sac is now much smaller compared to two weeks ago. |
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These are now about two inches long, growing half an inch per week. |
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The egg sac is expected to disappear in about 2 weeks time. Till then, they will be free swimming and start to consume frozen bloodworms. |
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A total of 60 fry. |
To increase the production, lots of fish farm today collect the eggs from the mouth of the parent fish two weeks after the spawning and artificially hatch the eggs. By doing this, the parent fishes can recover faster physically, and move on to the next breeding cycle instead of waiting few mouths. Also, more fishes can be collected. (It is believed that parent fishes swallow part of the eggs as their nutrients supply while mouth brooding.)
The other featured commercial breeding operation is Panda Aquatics. Some of the members of the Singapore Aquatic Realm, a local group of aquarist went on a tour of the Panda facilities and recorded the experience on their website.
Note: These wonderful pictures are links directly to another website, Thomson's Arowana Corner. This is an excellent website for Arowana lovers at www.Arowana.net.
Note - More to come on this chapter
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Chapter 7
Disease & Health Issues
I want to start this chapter with the following statement. It is my personal opinion based on conversations with fellow hobbyist that fish medications in the hands of hobbyist have killed far more fish than they have healed. I have no scientific data to back up my opinion. With that in mind prevention is the key to this chapter. Good persistent aquarium maintenance and cleanliness along with a good diet with prevent most diseases you are likely to encounter. Next, never, never, never add a fish to your established healthy tanks without a minumum 4 weeks quarantine and 6 weeks is even better. Even with the above however, disease may come your way. If it does, don't just buy something off the shelf and use according to the instructions. Seek the help of fellow hobbyist, your local pet shop, and any other knowledgeable source you can find. If you are in a big city you might find a vet with some fish knowledge, but don't count on it.
Arowana are hardy fish and are resistant to most fish diseases. After all you don't survive 50 million years by being vulnerable. Another reason is that, like the shark, it is the Arowana's job to remove the weak and diseased fish from the gene pool. Performing this job requires some resistance to the disease your meal is carrying. So what, besides jumping out of the tank, does threaten an Arowana?
Poor water quality - High ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, ph,
Poor nutrition - Fatty diet
Lack of exercise - Too small of an aquarium
Listed below are the most often encountered diseases along with suggested treatments. In all cases, raise the water temperature to 34 degree celcius and add 0.03% salt to the water (ie 300g of salt for 100litres of water). Depending on respective cases, add a wide spectrum medicine with anti-bacterial or anti-parasitic compounds. Medicines like tetracycline, acfriflavine may also help. Do not be too concerned over fin rot caused by fighting. Even in cases where extensive damage to the whole tail has been done, the recovery period is only a matter of weeks.
BULGING EYE - In the natural environment, the eyes are focused above water-level to search for live food. However, when the fish is reared in a fish tank which is transparent all round, the eyes tend to focus downwards due to distractions around and as food is readily found around and at the bottom of the tank. It does not exercise enough, so fat is accumulated to bulge or protrude within the socket of the eyes causing the eyes to protrude or droop. The hobbyist need not be unduly worried about the fish’s health although the value of the fish is affected by this phenomenon. This is only a natural adaptation to its environment. It is also thought to be caused by feeding the Arowana too much fatty food such as goldfish or beef heart and even its own reflection at the bottom of the tank. However, most bulging eyeballs have no observable cause, and the Arowana can swim and live healthily with entirely uneven eyes. If this is not treated in time, it can worsen until the eyeball falls out. Sometimes a fatty deposit causes the protrusion, it is hard to treat and should just be left alone. According to some Arowana farm owners simply putting the fish back into the pond for a few months will correct this deformity naturally but few of us have that luxury. Since there is no easily available cure for bulging eyes, prevention is better. Provide a large tank for exercise with gravel at the bottom to eliminate reflections. Watch the diet fat content and provide foods that stay near the surface.
GILL CURLING - When Gill curling has occurred, the covering of the fish's gills will curl back. This is commonly thought to be due to excessive amounts of nitrites, nitrates and ammonia in the water. Another factor might be the size of the tank being too small or the pH being too high. If gill curling has occurred, then you will need to do a small surgery. This may be best left to a professional. First, apply anesthesia (from a pet shop) to the Arowana or use ice in the water to numb the fish. Then carefully place the Arowana on a wet cloth carefully. Next heat a small pair of scissors and cut the covering of the gill slowly. Finally, apply some anti bacteria medicine to the cut area and put the fish back to the tank. The recovery time from the gill-cutting operation ranges from 3-6 month for a Arowana about 12 inches to 10 to 18 months for a Arowana about 20 inches.
FIN INJURY - If a piece of the hard ray of the fin is injured, it could be gently removed at the base and a new ray will grow in its place. In case of more rays, then the fish needs to be given anesthesia before operation to remove the broken rays with a pair of scissors. When fin-rays are broken, they need to be treated immediately, especially tail fins, as the fish depends largely on its tail fin to move about. Although fins may recover by themselves, they may be disfigured when they do. After surgery, a replaced fin can be almost perfect, except it may be a little wavy. However, it is best to get a specialist to perform the operation.
BARBEL DAMAGE - Should the whiskers be broken or damaged, the recovery period varies according to the age of the fish. Normally a young fish recovers faster. Whiskers may be damaged in 2 ways, at the root - when this occurs, recovery may be difficult even for a young fish, or away from - decide whether it is necessary to let it to grow the root back naturally, or to use a needle to help speed the growth. Even if the whisker is bent but not broken, it is best to cut it off so that it will not be out of shape when re-grown.
SPINAL CURVATURE - This is most commonly seen in Silver and Black Arowana. The causes are most often malnutrition when the fish is young or injury. Since the problem usually starts when the specimen fish is young a full recovery is virtually impossible. Carefully check your fish before purchasing. If you do find yourself with one and a decent environment is provided, it will rarely die from this deformity.
HEADROT - Headrot is suspected to be caused by using active carbon filter and it subsequent removal of essential trace elements. Headrot will start off by a patch of white spot on the head. Then the white spot will started to rot and produce dents on the Arowana's head. The only known cure is to add some aquarium salt and trace element additive until the Arowana recovers in 2 - 3 weeks.
FINROT - The fins and scales look as if they are rotting away. This problem is a bacteria called Aeromonas Hydrophila. First the edges of the fins take on a slightly opaque look. After a few days the membrane comes away and exposes the fin rays. To treat the fish, calculate the volume of water of your tank which is about 700 litres. Then check the water quality and if ok ,then added 2 kg of salt ,and 7 teaspoon of tetracyline for the first day. On the second day do the same check on the water quality, if still ok do not change water. On the third day change 50 % of water with aged water and add 50 % of medication and salt. Do the same check every day. Change 50% of the water with aged water every other day. Do not feed throughout the five days of treatment. Recovery should be noticeable after five days of treatment.
EXTERNAL PARASITES - There are so many possibilities here it is best to identify the particular culprit and consult your local fish store as to the suggested treatment.
DROPSY
INTERAL BLEEDING
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As noted earlier, the Asian Arowana is in trouble from a conservation point. The following documents from websites discuss this issue. Links and credits are noted.
A message from http://www.traffic.org/dispatches/fortune-fish.html
Southeast Asia: A wildlife emporium
The Asian Bonytongue or Asian Arowana Scleropages formosus is probably one of the most expensive freshwater, ornamental fish in the world. With its brightly coloured scales and barbels at the tip of its mouth, it is also known as the Dragon Fish and thought of as a reincarnation of the Divinity Dragon, a powerful guardian against evil.
Some Chinese believe this fish has the power to ward off evil, in addition to bringing luck and fortune. The red-coloured Asian Arowana, said to be the most powerful of all, is more in demand than others and consequently ranks as one of the most expensive aquarium fish in the world.
The increasing scarcity of this fish is another factor in its price tag. The rarer the fish, the more expensive it becomes and the more enhanced the owner's status. This popularity has led to extensive illicit trade. The Asian Arowana is a protected species in Malaysia and has long been listed in CITES Appendix I, which prohibits international trade except in special circumstances. For example, captive-bred fish may be traded if specimens are tagged with a glass-covered microchip inserted under the skin that can be read by a scanner. Proper CITESpermits and a certificate with the microchip number must also accompany each fish.
Today, there is growing concern about illegal trade in the Asian Arowana in Peninsular Malaysia, which serves as an important transit point for both imports and exports.
Initial TRAFFIC surveys to learn the extent of illicit trade in Peninsular Malaysia indicate that this fish is smuggled in from Indonesia and sold to foreigners or to local traders. Although there is some demand for the fish in Malaysia, most imported into the country are re-exported to further destinations, such as Thailand, Taiwan and Hong Kong. The latter is believed to be the largest market for Asian Arowana.
The full findings of TRAFFIC Southeast Asia’s surveys of illegal trade in Peninsular Malaysia will be shared with enforcement authorities and are expected to be published later this year.
Illegal trade in this fish could be curbed with tighter security and stricter enforcement. Otherwise this remarkable fish may soon go the way of its dragon namesake.
This dissertation appears on many websites.
THE FATE OF THE ASIAN Arowana IN THE HANDS OF THE AQUARIUM INDUSTRY
A Research Paper Submitted to
the Faculty of
Ateneo de Manila University
by
Cheng Lee
Introduction:
The past 30 years have seen the rise of the popularity of the Asian Arowana in the fishkeeping hobby. This paper aims to describe the development of its trade and how it came to be listed by CITES (Convention on International Trade on Endangered Species of wild fauna and flora) as a highest class protected fish. To this end, we shall also see the present state and developments in the trade of this fish.
I will mainly focus on the implications that the pet industry has on these fish, and how they have contributed to the development of its trade. I will also focus on the import, export, and the sale of these fishes as governed by the rules and regulations of the CITES convention.
Since this is a fairly uncovered area that I am venturing into, I had to work with resources outside of the Library. Mostly my research materials come from correspondents I have met via the internet. They include knowledgeable breeders who have been in the business for years. I have also received tons of documents from CITES thanks to the generosity of Mr. Obdulio Menghi.
It is the hope of this paper to make people more aware of what’s going on behind the scenes in the aquarium industry. Hopefully, this paper will also show people what we can do as consumers and hobbyists to make things better in the trade of Asian Arowana and to all animals in general.
I. Background of the Arowana Trade
A. Dragonfishes become popular in the aquarium
The Asian Arowana (Sclepropages Formosus) is popularly known as the Dragonfish. Its charm lies in the fact that this fish is a creature surrounded by mystery. First of all, it cannot be bred in an aquarium. Coupled with that, an Arowana grows into a massive specimen that could reach up to lengths of three feet or more. This is the reason why it presents such a challenge to hobbyists, and this is also the reason why it adds to the distinction of the Arowana. The fact that not just anybody can take care of it is just too exciting to resist.
It is not merely enough to talk about the beauty of the Arowana in terms of its size alone. One has to mention the brilliant colors by which these fishes are known for. Depending on the variety, an Arowana can have colors ranging from red, red golden, gold, and green. Each color has its own subdivision too. For example the red has chili red, pineapple red and so on but for purposes of convenience we will just restrict ourselves to these basic categories.
Dragonfish are also the object of Chinese superstition. It is believed that they are the reincarnation of the dragon, the mythical figure of Chinese folklore from which it is believed all Chinese are descended from. Geomancers say that they bring good luck, and that they protect the owners from harm and misfortune. It is said that an Arowana in the office (especially a gold one, as it resembles gold, meaning therefore that it is a sign of money) will bring a lot of good fortune and prosperity. A red Arowana on the other hand, will ward off evil spirits when placed at home. These reasons along with the Arowana great beauty, have made them a favorite in the aquarium.
B. The demand on the Asian Arowana increases
The demand for the Arowana increased dramatically. This can ve seen from the number of breeding farms that increased steadily from 1978 all the way to 1992. Both pet shops and suppliers alike couldn’t keep up with the rapid demand. An Asian Arowana was bought the moment it arrived.
That period saw an unprecedented soar in the price of the Arowana. The price of the Arowana was just as big as its fame. People were willing to pay tens of thousands of pesos for an Arowana. The price hasn’t changed much until today. A red costs up to 20,000 pesos here in the Philippines, and 4000 U.S. dollars in the United States. A gold costs up to 8500 pesos, and a green costs up to 3500 pesos. The fish collectors, who knew that they had the power to dictate the price of their catch raised the prices significantly to make a greater profit. The suppliers did the same, causing pet shop owners to raise their prices too.
This chain reaction was the fault of both the hobbyists and the suppliers. Both sides were to blame. People didn’t care if they had to pay much as long as they can get a fish. What this did for the Arowana was disastrous. Fishes began to deplete in the wild as they were caught faster than they could reproduce. Soon they were well on their way to becoming an endangered specie. And this is exactly what happened.
II. CITES steps in
A. Background on CITES
One cannot talk about the Arowana without talking about CITES. In the words of Hiroshi Maeda "The Asian Arowana cannot be discussed without mentioning the CITES convention."
CITES, the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of wild fauna and flora, is a convention comprised by different nations that seeks to regulate the trade of endangered species of plants and animals.
Cites had its beginnings at the 8th International Union for the Conservation of Nature. It was proposed that a treaty be drawn up to regulate the trade in endangered species of animals. Several proposals were drafted but they never made it to the meeting board. However, it resurfaced again in 1972. It was suggested at the UN Human Environment Council meeting that "a meeting of appropriate governments or government agencies with full powers be called at the earliest opportunity in order to draw up and adopt a treaty regulating the import, export, and transportation of wild flora and fauna."
The said convention was held in Washington the following year. The result was a pact that 72 countries signed which went into effect on July 1, 1975.
B. CITES lists Scleropages Formosus under its Appendix I status.
The aim of CITES is to "prevent excessive international trade in specific endangered species; it recognizes the positiveness of moderate consumption and seeks to promote balanced use."
CITES has three levels of classification when it comes to wild flora and fauna. Appendix I is for plants and animals that are in danger of becoming extinct. Appendix II is for plants and animals that are considered to be endangered. Appendix III plants and animals are abundant and are not endangered. Asian Arowana are listed by CITES under its Appendix I status as a highest class protected fish due to its rapid decline in the wild. Under this scheme, the fish is to be able to enjoy all the privileges that comes with being a protected specie. Violators in the United States could for example, face up to 20,000 dollars in fine and up to five years imprisonment for violating this law.
Because of CITES, the Asian Arowana has now been given a new lease on life. Because of it’s special status as an Appendix I animal, the trade in Asian Arowana became illegal.
C. CITES agrees to importation of farm bred specimens at a restricted level.
In 1989, at the Rosanne Seventh Review Congress, it was agreed to import farm bred fishes at a restricted level from Indonesia. Although Asian Arowana were originally listed under Appendix I, it was later recognized that breeding the Arowana can be an economic alternative to domestic livestock production. At the same time, it will provide an incentive for rural populations in those places to develop an interest in its conservation. In line with this, CITES also believes that it should encourage the establishment of captive breeding operations for animals included in Appendix I. Therefore, Arowana were once again allowed to be exported from its country of origin as long as the exported fishes are of specimens bred in captivity. The number of fishes exported from Indonesia are as follows: 1250 in 1990, 1500 in 1991, and 2500 in 1992. This allowance continues to increase and today there are over 16 CITES registered farms breeding Scleropages Formosus for commercial purposes.
III. The Arowana Today
A. A look into a fish farm
These days, the trading of Arowana are once again legal, provided they are from CITES registered fish farms. These fish farms are scattered across Indonesia, Malaysia and Singapore where these fishes find their native habitat. To be able to apply as a CITES certified fish farm is a long and tedious process. Captive-Breeding operations have to be first approved by the Management Authority of each Party, in consultation with the Scientific Authority of that Party. Prior to the establishment of captive-breeding operations for exotic species, a study of ecological risks should be completed, in order to prevent any negative effects on the ecosystem and the native species. When all this is done the breeder has to acquire a breeding stock, and he has to build the facilities to house specimens and successfully breeding the species.
Specimens for the aquarium are no longer acquired in the wild. These fish farms specializes in the production of F2 offsprings, meaning second generation offsprings that can be sold to the market. These fishes are tagged with coded microchips called Passive Integrated Transponders (PIT) for identification purposes. These microchips help identify these fishes as a farm bred animal, and if the need ever arises to check its identification, the microchip can be scanned to identify the fish. Aside from the microchip, when one buys a farm bred fish from any of these fish farms, the buyer will receive a certificate of authenticity plus a birth certificate.
Some of the more well known fish farms are located in Singapore such as Panda Aquatics and Dragonfish Industry. They specialize in breeding high quality Arowana.
B. Illegal activities
Although we have come a long way to make short term destruction into long term growth for both man and beast, there are still a lot of illegal activities going on behind the scenes. Although CITES has taken so much pain to ensure that its captive breeding program will be for the best, people have found ways around it to maximize profit at the expense of nature. There are some breeders who dig up a big earth pond and throws in whatever fishes they have in their breeding stock. The result is that a lot of hybrids are produced since these strains interbreed easily.
Hybrids are usually more prone to sickness and birth defects. These birth defects can cause disastrous consequences down the line as future generations of Arowana will suffer due to bad genes and mutations. These irresponsible breeders don’t care about quality, they care for quantity. Breeders also just look for a few features and market these as either red gold or green Arowana when in fact they are hybrids. What happens is that consumers are being cheated of their money.
The biggest problem now is that some breeders would catch fishes from the wild, and then tag them as CITES registered fishes. There is also the problem with hormone treatment. When breeders catch their fish from the pond, and realize that they are not that red, they would treat them with hormones so that they could sell it at a higher price. Recently, there have been complaints that the quality of fishes has gone down. The truth is, both sides are to blame. The dealers want cheaper fishes, and so they get what they paid for. However it is the consumer who suffers because he doesn’t know if the fish he’s buying is hormone treated or not.
Alex Chang of Panda Aquatics, one of the leading fish farms based on Singapore says that "we here are trying very hard to uphold the image of the industry in Singapore to have a sustainable market overseas but dealers are killing themselves day by day..."
C. The Arowana in the home of the hobbyist
The final destination of the Arowana is of course at the home of the hobbyist. Here the fishes spend the rest of their lives under the care of their new owners. Depending on the quality of care given, an Arowana may live up to a ripe old age of 25 years old.
The more adventurous aquarist will try to breed these fishes for himself and this is not discouraged. There are several benefits of breeding the Arowana by the aquarist.
Firstly, it adds to the knowledge of existing breeding methods. Secondly, it helps ensure the survival of the Arowana. Thirdly, when more people can breed these fishes by themselves, it would help counter the high prices in the market. 4) Arowana would become more available.
If there are advantages though, there definitely are disadvantages too. There is always the worry that fishes bred by the hobbyist would be of poor quality and it would contribute to the decline in the gene pool.
Conclusion:
There is much debate going on whether the trade in exotic animals , and not just the Asian Arowana, has done more harm or good. It is not the intention of this paper to prove or show favor for any particular side. This paper does not aim to prove either point, but what this paper does intend to do is to bring out in the open something that is not generally known.
As with all research papers, there are limitations to my study. The first , and which I feel is the most significant, is that a lot has yet to be uncovered on the illegal trading going on. This is one area that if possible, should be given more research into because it is a very significant part of the whole trade. Also, few have yet to witness the actual steps taken in the exportation of these fishes-from catching, bagging, shipping, quarantine, until it finally reaches its destination in the different pet shops where it is sold. All these are areas still worth exploring and should be given proper research into.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
A. Books
B. Web Sites
Atmadja, Ongky Kusuma. "Asian Arowana." Onky’s Arowana Page.
Chang, Alex. "Panda Aquatic."
CITES. "What is CITES"; "Protected Species"; "Text of the Convention." CITES homepage.
Dragonfish Industry. "Dragonfish Industry." Thomson's Arowana Corner by Hoi, Thomson. "Asian Arowana."; "Breeding."Liu, Andrew. "Andrew’s Arowana." Andrews Home.
Segura, Keith. "Bud’s Dragons." Bud’s Dragon Pix Section.
Tan, Joel. "Banova’s Red Dragon."
Wong, Desmond. "What is an Arowana?"
C. Personal Mail
Chang, Alex. "Re:Beautiful Fishes!" Personal e-mail (14 May 1998)
Chang, Alex. "Re: [Fwd: Re: Scleropages Formosus] Personal e-mail (15 May 1998)
Chuong. "CITES." Personal e-mail (15 may 1998)
Menghi, Obdulio. "Re:Please help me!" Personal e-mail (13 may 1998)
Menghi, Obdulio. "Re:Scleropages Formosus." Personal e-mail (14 May 1998)
Menghi, Obdulio. "Re: Scleropages Formosus." Personal e-mail (!5 may 1998)
D. Unpublished Material
CITES Resolutions. "Resolutions of the Conference of the Parties to CITES that remain in effect after the 10th meeting." October 1997.
NOTIFICATION TO THE PARTIES No. 940. "Control of Operations Breeding Appendix-I Species in Captivity." 4 September 1996.
NOTIFICATION TO THE PARTIES No. 981. "Control of Operations Breeding Appendix-I Species in Captivity." 2 June 1997.
APPENDIX
Article III
Regulation of Trade in Specimens of Species Included in Appendix I
1. All trade in specimens of species included in Appendix I shall be in accordance with the
provisions of this Article.
2. The export of any specimen of a species included in Appendix I shall require the prior grant and
presentation of an export permit. An export permit shall only be granted when the following
conditions have been met:
(a) a Scientific Authority of the State of export has advised that such export will not be
detrimental to the survival of that species;
(b) a Management Authority of the State of export is satisfied that the specimen was not
obtained in contravention of the laws of that State for the protection of fauna and flora;
(c) a Management Authority of the State of export is satisfied that any living specimen will be
so prepared and shipped as to minimize the risk of injury, damage to health or cruel treatment;
and
(d) a Management Authority of the State of export is satisfied that an import permit has been
granted for the specimen.
Misc Items:
Young Arowana being tagged using
Passive Intergrated Transpounder ( PIT) tag to certify that it has been captivity bred
aproved by CITES NOTIFICATION to the Parties no. 825
Dear CITES Cooperator:
We would like to inform you of the following:
MAN ACCUSED OF TRAFFICKING IN ENDANGERED FISH:
On April 15, 1998, Federal authorities arrested Zhi Lin Chen, the president and principal owner of an aquarium shop in New York City's Chinatown, for trafficking in Asian bonytongues (Scleropages formosus). This fish species, also known as the Asian Arowana and the dragon fish, is listed as Endangered under the U.S. Endangered Species Act and on Appendix I of CITES. Authorities announced that Chen was selling these rare fish on the black market for up to $6,000 each.In the fall of 1997, U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service agents began investigating the trafficking in Asian bonytongues. During the investigation, agents found 59 of the fish hidden inside 3 of 15 cartons that were shipped to Port Elizabeth, New Jersey, on October 8, 1997. The shipment was supposed to have contained 472 goldfish and 72 red-tail gouramies from a fish farm in Malaysia and was addressed to 38 Aquarium, the Chinatown shop where Chen is the president and principal owner. Each of the Asian bonytongues was individually packed inside plastic bags, while most of the goldfish and gouramies were either dead or in poor condition.
Undercover agents then visited 38 Aquarium in November 1997, whereupon they met Chen. They asked him if they could purchase Asian bonytongues and were given a price of $1,000 to $6,000 each. On April 2, 1998, they returned to the aquarium shop and were taken by Chen to a garment factory on 63rd Street in Brooklyn. There they found numerous fish tanks and pools containing approximately a dozen Asian bonytongues. The agents paid a total of $2,500 for two of the fish. The fish were later examined and confirmed to be the endangered bonytongues.
Chen was arrested on April 15, and charged with one count of trafficking in an endangered species. He was released on $100,000 bond in Federal District Court in Manhattan, and if convicted, could receive up to five years in prison and a fine of up to $250,000.
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Appendix B
Other Arowana Books
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Appendix C
Arowana on the Internet
Sites Dedicated to Arowana
Memoirs of an Arowana Lover Asia-Arowana Gallery Ongky's Arowana Steven's Arowana Home Page Yoong's Asian Arowana Home Page